The chef and his restaurant  November 2010
   

A taste of local flavor

Chef Filippo Sinisgalli of Mezzosoldo restaurant in Val Rendena and his dishes from the Trentino region, made with vivacity and a pinch of creativity



Dining in style

From 18th century paintings to Hoffmann and Thonet design objects

The simplicity of the dishes served at Locanda Mezzosoldo are an experience for the senses contrast nicely with the dining rooms, decorated with large stoves, neoclassic ceramic pots, red marble from Trento, religious 18th century paintings from Tirolo and large 18th century tables. The rooms are housed inside a classic nobleman’s alpine house. What was once the kitchen is now a Stube, or wooden room for warming up near the heater. The Biedermeier room is decorated in blond walnut, maple and cherry wood, as well as Viennese fabrics. On the veranda – the winter garden – are objects designed by Hoffmann and Thonet, as well as Venetian glass from the 1940s. Nothing has been left to chance.

S.U.

Filippo Sinisgalli, 33-year-old chef and graduate of Alma cooking school in Parma, transforms wild herbs, mountain fruit, mushrooms, local meat and fish into refined dishes.

Filippo is the chef of Locanda Mezzosoldo, an former post-office turned restaurant owned by the Lorenzi family in Spiazzo, located in the Rendena Valley of northern Italy.
In 1897, Miradio Lorenzi opened the doors of this picturesque restaurant to visitors, offering them a place to stay the night in addition to simple, seasonal and terrior-driven cuisine.
Over time, the restaurant earned a Michelin star for its cuisine.

Today, Filippo Sinisgalli has taken over the reins and it is his job to maintain the restaurant’s reputation, while breathing new life and freshness into the dishes.

“I have been cooking since I was 15.
My grandmother was the one who shared her passion with me”
, he says.
“In terms of schooling and technique, well, I was taken and impressed with the style of Gualtiero Marchesi who taught me to have deep respect for every ingredient in a dish.
I love flavors that can are measurable in millimeters.
I am not an aesthete of presentation, but of flavor.
I want every element to enter your mouth with all of its force and vitality.”

Ogni sala della Locanda è arredata con un tema scelto dal proprietario appassionato di antiquariato, mentre il menu è un equilibrio ben dosato di tradizione e inventiva dello chef Filippo Sinisgalli

Every single room of the Locanda is furnished following a specific theme due to the owner’s passion for antiques, while the menu is a perfect balance of tradition and creativity of chef Filippo Sinisgalli

Filippo pairs strong mountain flavors, like speck and shepherd’s cheeses, with more delicate flavors, revisiting the traditional dishes of Trentino. An example?

“Salted meat with thistle and mustard mashed potatoes. Or, pasta salad with chanterelles and mixed garden greens.”

My menu is seasonal and based on ingredients, like wild herbs, that come from local farmers. I also use hard-to-find ingredients like radicchio dell’orso (Alpine Blue-sow-thistle) that takes hours of walking through the snow to find and forage.

For information: Locanda Mezzosoldo, via Nazionale 196, Spiazzo, tel. 0465.801067. Dinner, starting at 35 euro

Sinisgalli, diplomato alla scuola Alma di alta cucina di Colorno, al lavoro nella cucina del Mezzosoldo, di cui ha preso il comando da pochi mesi

Sinisgalli, graduated at the culinary institute of Alma in Colorno, working in the kitchen of the Mezzolsoldo restaurant, where he just recently has taken charge

Silvia Ugolotti – Photos by Marzia Gandini

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